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Whether it's playing with the kids, a door handle that's seen better days, or a leak that won't go away, here are some tips. Before long, every home in the Durham Region needs some level of drywall repair. As a Port Perry handyman, I get called out on drywall damage more often than you'd think - and it's usually because when people see a hole or a crack, they just shrug and think "oh, it's no big deal". But the truth is, even a small hole, dent, or crack can grow a whole lot bigger if you let it sit, especially if it isn't secured with screws.
Most homeowners tell me they don't think it's worth bothering over - but the thing is, that little hole can spread, those cracks can deepen, and the structure of your house can start to weaken due to damaged drywall. That's why I offer full-service local drywall repair, drywall patching, and wall damage repair to bring your walls back to their original finish, including effective crack repair.
This article is a no-nonsense guide to drywall repair in Port Perry - from the DIY basics to more complex drywall cracks, ceiling repairs, and matching textures. If you're wondering whether you should tackle it yourself or call in the professionals, you might also want to watch a video on the topic, as this is for you.
Drywall is a great material for building walls - but let's face it, it's not indestructible. Day-to-day wear and tear, moisture, framing shifting, and impact pressure can all take their toll. Over the years, I've done thousands of drywall repair jobs, including a number of large holes, and the same types of damage keep coming up time and time again:
The kind of dents and holes that come from normal wear and tear
Really big holes caused by accidents or handyman shenanigans
Bad drywall tape joints
Cracks from growth and contraction that happen with the weather
Sagging ceilings that need a bit of repair
Screws that have popped through
Seams that are loose or need some patching work
Mis-cut drywall that previous renovators leave behind
Bulging mud from amateur repairs
Corners that have split from impact
Bubbles of moisture that form when there's a leak
People often ask me: "How do I know if the drywall needs to be replaced, or if I can patch it?" Well, it depends on the hole's size, where it is, how well the studs are attached, and the condition of the drywall. If the hole is small and the wall is in decent nick, a patch, sometimes reinforced with paper, is probably fine. But bigger holes might need some new drywall and a bit more work to get it back up to scratch.
Drywall is not just something cosmetic that you see when you walk into a room. It's part of the foundation of your house; it has insulation; it supports the paint; and it helps keep your home warm and cozy, not to mention maintaining the right texture for your walls. When drywall gets damaged, it can cause a whole host of problems - like air leaks and gaps for pests to sneak in, especially without proper drying time. And before you know it, what started as a small dent can become a big, unsightly blemish if you skip the drywall patch, all over the surface of your wall. That's why I always say to my clients - get on top of it early. Don't let a simple patch turn into a multi-room repair.
High-quality drywall repair starts with the right tools and materials. I bring:
A tape measure to get those precise cuts
A utility knife for scoring
Putty knives in different sizes for different jobs
Joint compound for applying multiple coats
Mud for the heavier fills
Sanding sponges and sandpaper to smooth things out
Paper tape or mesh for different repairs
Some furring strips to support the drywall
Screws for attaching new bits of drywall
Corner bead for the edges
Primer and finishing materials
Sheetrock cut to size
With the right gear, putting in a smooth patch, perfect seams, and invisible repairs becomes a whole lot easier.
Here's a step-by-step rundown of how I install and tackle a drywall repair in a Port Perry home. Whether it's a big hole, a bad seam, or a full drywall patch, I follow pretty much the same process every time.
First things first - I take a good, hard look at the damage and take my tape measure to figure out the square area that needs fixing. I need to understand what I'm dealing with:
a small dent that's a quick fix
a hole that needs a patch
a more serious problem with the studs or the way the drywall is attached* a typical hole or two
spreading cracks in a wall and signs of weakened edges
a big, damaged section that needs patching
areas that need all new drywall installation - think of the disruption if that were you
holes from plumbing or electrical access in your ceiling - real accessibility issues
Most projects end up being smaller than homeowners expect. Even big holes really aren't anything to freak out about – just know the right width and trick, and you'll be fine.
First, I work out what needs to happen, and then:
I trace the damage with the tape measure
Cut the square section around the hole using a utility knife
Smooth out the edges
Pull out all the broken bits of drywall
Clean up any dust, old joint compound, and debris
Get the surface all ready for that repair
It's right about here that many DIY repairs start to go wrong - they skip the cleanup, and the patch ends up failing soon after.
For big holes, I add a bit of extra support to stop it all collapsing or bowing later. I use:
A furring strip or two, screwed in to keep things solid
A new bit of drywall, of the right size
Some fillers to help keep the structure strong
This way the patch won't ever bow or sag – and the paint will cover it perfectly.
One of my go-to techniques is the California patch - it's perfect for mid-sized holes and leaves zero visible marks.
Once the drywall is in place or the hole has been fixed, I move on to:
Slap some drywall tape over the seams - it's got to be smooth
Spread out the first coat of joint compound - this seals everything up and gives you a good base to work from
Use a putty knife to press and spread the compound - get it smooth and even
Make sure the whole surface is flat and even
The first coat is really thin – it just seals the seams and gets you ready for the next coat or two.
Once the first coat is dry, I come back and apply another smooth coat of mud, giving the whole area a smooth, seamless finish.
With big repairs, though - or if there are a lot of cracks or dents - you might need to do a third coat. And for each coat, you need to:
Get the spatula flat against the surface and really press it down
Feather it out from the edges, 6 to 12 inches or so - get it really smooth
Make sure there's no visible seams left at all
Once the final coat is all dry, it's sanding time - with a sanding sponge, taking care not to scratch the paint, and getting everything:
As flat as can be
Nice and smooth
Get the edges to disappear
Get it ready for some primer
It's the final result that makes a pro really shine - not just anyone can do this.
To finish off, I:
Paint on primer on to seal that patch and prevent it from showing through later
Match the paint colour to a T
Finish off with a roller or brush to get that seamless finish
When it's all done, you'll hardly even notice the repair.
There's nothing wrong with doing it yourself, but many homeowners underestimate how much time, skill, and materials are needed to make it look perfect. Watching a YouTube video or two might give you a feel for the basics, but trust us, it's not as easy as it looks to get a perfect, smooth finish.
Too much mud being used - and it shows
Edges that aren't properly feathered
Bulging patches
Uneven coats
Drywall tape that isn't used right
Visible seams
Incorrect thickness of mud
Poor blending
Sagging patches
Poorly sanded areas
Uneven surfaces
If you just hire a pro, though, it gets done right the first time, and often ends up saving you money in the long run.
As a local handyman, I bring a heap of:
Years of experience - I've seen it all
Clean, tried and tested techniques that work every time
The right tools for the job
A bit of precision when getting the measurements
A commitment to an absolutely flawless finish
Understanding of the quirks in older homes in the area
Respect for your home and your time
Whether it's a small hole or a full drywall job, you can trust that I'll get it done smoothly, seamlessly, and perfectly.
The most common drywall repairs I fix in Port Perry homes are:
Dents and holes from doors
Dents and holes from furniture
Cracks from the house settling
Drywall tape that's starting to peel
Water bubbles in the walls
Big holes that require some real structural work
Repairing holes for electrical or plumbing access
Damaged corner beads
Failing seams
Sagging ceilings
Poor DIY jobs
Nail pops and screws that have come loose
Whatever the drywall problem - I can fix it quickly, quietly, and professionally.
There are definitely small holes and dents you can look after yourself, but bigger cracks and deeper holes are best left to the pros to ensure you get that perfect, smooth finish and durability.
Most small fix-it jobs cost between $100 and $300. But larger projects - like massive holes or repairs that cover multiple sections of drywall - can easily run $300 to $700 or more, depending on how badly the drywall is damaged.
It's almost always cheaper to fix the drywall than replace it. But there are times when the damage is so bad - like if the drywall is seriously water-damaged or really badly compromised, especially around the studs - that replacing a whole section or even the whole wall is your only option.
Big holes are usually a bit of a process to fix, especially for a first drywall repair. You'll probably need to add some furring strips in there to support a new piece of sheetrock, then you've got to mud it, tape it with drywall tape, and slap on multiple coats of joint compound - including a second coat, and that's to get you started.
If you've got a medium-sized hole, the California patch method is a pretty reliable option. But if you've got a really large hole with some structural problems, you may have to use some reinforcement - and possibly even replace the section of drywall with a new square piece that fits.
If a hole is bigger than the average fist, it's probably too much for just a simple patch, and you'll need to add some reinforcement - and often even a complete replacement of the drywall section involved. And large openings that put a lot of stress on the surrounding structure will probably need to be reinforced by attaching them to the studs with screws, along with multiple layers of joint compound, and sometimes requiring two coats for a proper finish.
Spackle is okay for the tiny little dents in the wall, but if you're dealing with a crack, or a seam in the drywall, or anything deeper than a small dent that you need to really hit, then drywall mud and joint compound are definitely your best bet.
Mesh can be useful for shallow repairs, but when you've got a really big hole to fill, you're usually better off using some furring strips for extra strength, getting the tape right, and slapping on multiple layers of mud.
I usually start by measuring the damage, cutting a new piece of drywall to fit, then adding whatever reinforcement is needed to get it to stick. After that, it's all about mudding, feathering, sanding, priming, and painting - but obviously the first step is to figure out just how serious the damage is, and what sort of wall you're dealing with.
Honesty, fixing drywall is pretty much always going to be the cheaper option - unless the whole wall is seriously water-damaged, moldy, or structurally compromised, which is the kind of thing where you might want to consider just replacing the entire wall altogether.
